??o??n t??u ho??? d??i h??n 2km ch???y tr??n sa m???c Sahara

Thứ sáu - 04/10/2019 05:27
Qu???n chi???c kh??n cho??ng ???-r???p (kh??n touareg) quanh m???t ????? m???t kh???i b??? c??t b???i t???n c??ng, t??i tr??o thang chui v??o toa xe ch??? h??ng v?? ????a m???t ????nh gi?? hi???n tr?????ng.M???t h??ng d??i v?? t???n nh???ng toa t??u k??o d??i ?????n t???n ch??n tr???i, rung chuy???n v?? l???c l??.??? hai b??n l?? b??nh nguy??n c??t tr???i d??i ?????n v?? bi??n v?? nh???ng ?????n c??t th???p tr??i d???n qua trong ??nh s??ng l???p l??nh c???a sa m???c Sahara.
??o??n t??u ho??? d??i h??n 2km ch???y tr??n sa m???c Sahara

??o??n t??u ho??? d??i h??n 2km ch???y tr??n sa m???c Sahara

Alastair GillBBC Travel
  • AlamyBa??n quy????n hi??nh a??nhALAMY

Qu???n chi???c kh??n cho??ng ???-r???p (kh??n touareg) quanh m???t ????? m???t kh???i b??? c??t b???i t???n c??ng, t??i tr??o thang chui v??o toa xe ch??? h??ng v?? ????a m???t ????nh gi?? hi???n tr?????ng.

M???t h??ng d??i v?? t???n nh???ng toa t??u k??o d??i ?????n t???n ch??n tr???i, rung chuy???n v?? l???c l??.

??? hai b??n l?? b??nh nguy??n c??t tr???i d??i ?????n v?? bi??n v?? nh???ng ?????n c??t th???p tr??i d???n qua trong ??nh s??ng l???p l??nh c???a sa m???c Sahara.

C?? nh???ng ng?????i ng???i tr??n c??c toa xe ph??a tr?????c, quay m???t v??? h?????ng gi?? v?? la h??t v???i nhau b???ng ti???ng ???-r???p ???n ??o ?????n ??i???c tai.

Ta c?? th??? t?????ng t?????ng vi???c ??i qua Sahara b???ng t??u h???a th?? gi???ng nh?? m???t h??nh tr??nh thi???n ?????nh.

Theo m???t s??? c??ch n??o ???? th?? qu??? l?? v???y - nh??ng n?? c??ng l?? m???t c?? ????nh kh??ng khoan nh?????ng, kh??ng ng???ng ngh??? v??o c?? th??? c??ng c??c gi??c quan c???a ta.

Ti???ng ?????ng ???m ???m v?? c??ng ??m thanh nghi???n ken k??t; nh???ng c??n rung li??n t???c lan truy???n l??n kh???p c?? th???; nh???ng h???t c??t lao xo??y l???n v??o t??c trong l??n gi?? n??ng; m???t tr???i sa m???c chi???u r??t nh??i v??o n??i m?? m???t.

Alastair GillBa??n quy????n hi??nh a??nhALASTAIR GILL
Image captionChuy???n t??u Train du Desert c???a Mauritania ch???y h??nh tr??nh 704km, t??? Nouadhibou ?????n Zouerat

Khai tr????ng v??o n??m 1963, ??o??n t??u c?? t??n Train du Desert c???a Mauritania ch???y m???i ng??y m???t chuy???n ngang sa m???c, t??? c???ng Nouadhibou tr??n b??? bi???n ?????i T??y D????ng ?????n c??c m??? qu???ng s???t ??? Zouerat ??? ph??a t??y b???c ?????t n?????c.

T??? b???n ?????u ?????n b???n cu???i l?? h??nh tr??nh ch???y d???c theo bi??n gi???i v??ng l??nh th??? c?? tranh ch???p T??y Sahara, ??i m???t kho???ng 20 gi??? v???i t???ng chi???u d??i l?? 704km.

D??i h??n 2km, ??o??n t??u d??ng ?????n ba ho???c b???n ?????u m??y diesel, c?? m???t toa ch??? kh??ch v?? t??? 200 ?????n 210 toa ch??? h??ng.

Khi ???????c ch???t ?????y ????? ??i v??? ph??a t??y t???i Nouadhibou, m???i toa t??u c?? th??? ch??? t???i 84 t???n qu???ng s???t.

T??u c??ng ch??? h??nh kh??ch qua l???i gi???a c??c c???ng ?????ng s???ng n??i sa m???c xa x??i, gi???m b???t ???????c t???i 500km so v???i h??nh tr??nh b???t ti???n b???ng ???????ng b???, m?? n???u ??i l?? ph???i v??ng r???t xa v??? ph??a nam ?????n Nouakchott, th??? ???? Mauritania.

Nhi???u ng?????i Mauritani l???a ch???n theo c??ch m?? t??i v?? ng?????i b???n ?????ng h??nh, Mike, ???? l??m, ???? l?? b??? qua toa t??u ch??? kh??ch qu?? ????ng m?? ??i "h???ng hai" tr??n c??c toa ch??? h??ng, ???????c l??n mi???n ph??. ???? l?? m???t h??nh tr??nh ???n ??o, b???n th???u v?? nguy hi???m: t?? ng?? l?? chuy???n th?????ng x???y ra, v?? nhi???t ????? trong ng??y c?? th??? l??n t???i h??n 40C.

T??i v?? Mike ???? t???ng c?? nh???ng chuy???n t??u v?? m??? h??i, nh???ng c??n h???m ???p ???p v?? nh???ng chuy???n ??i b??? qua nh???ng ?????m l???y d??y ?????c mu???i ??? Nga.

Nh??ng ??o??n l??? h??nh b???ng th??p n??y l?? m???t b??i h???c m???i v??? kh??? h???nh - m???t h???p kim lo???i r???ng, ph??a tr??n kh??ng c?? m??i che khi???n ta ti???p x??c ho??n to??n v???i m???t b???n giao h?????ng nguy??n t??? b???t bi???n nh???ng s???c n??ng, gi?? v?? ti???ng ???n.

AlamyBa??n quy????n hi??nh a??nhALAMY
Image captionC?? chi???u d??i h??n 2km, ??o??n t??u Train du Desert c???a Mauritania l?? m???t trong nh???ng ??o??n t??u d??i nh???t th??? gi???i

"???? l?? m???t trong nh???ng ??o??n t??u d??i nh???t th??? gi???i," cha t??i s??? n??i v???i ch??ng t??i nh?? v???y t???i b??n ??n t???i.

"H??y t?????ng t?????ng l?? m??nh ??i h??ng tr??m d???m ti???n v??o sa m???c Sahara trong m???t toa t??u ch??? h??ng, sau ???? xu???ng t??u ??? gi???a sa m???c tr?????c l??c b??nh minh, c???u nguy???n l?? m??nh ???? xu???ng ????ng ??i???m c???n xu???ng. Th??? r???i ngay khi m???t tr???i m???c, c?? m???t chi???c xe jeep ch???y qua tri???n ?????i."

Khi c??n nh???, t??i ???? b??? cu???n h??t b???i c??u chuy???n v??? cu???c h??nh tr??nh c???a cha m??? t??i tr??n chuy???n t??u ch??? qu???ng s???t, m???t cu???c phi??u l??u b?? ???n d?????ng nh?? kh??ng h??? t???n t???i trong th??? gi???i m?? t??i bi???t.

N??m 1971, h??? ???? ??i thuy???n t??? Qu???n ?????o Canary ?????n m???t c???ng ??? v??ng m?? ng??y nay l?? T??y Sahara, sau ???? ??i v??? ph??a nam, xu???ng v??ng duy??n h???i v?? v??o Mauritania.

Tr??n ???????ng ??i, h??? nghe n??i l?? c?? th??? b???t m???t chuy???n t??u h??ng ????? ??i ti???p v??o v??ng ?????t ngh??o kh??? b??n trong n?????c n??y, ?????n c??c khu ?????nh c?? n??i ???? t???ng l?? nh???ng ch???ng d???ng ch??n tr??n c??c tuy???n ???????ng bu??n b??n th???i Sahara c??? ?????i.

H??? ???? xu???ng Choum, n???m s??u kho???ng 400km trong ?????t li???n, n??i c?? m???t con ???????ng l???m b???i d???n ?????n ph??? ch??? Atar v?? th??nh ph??? thi??ng li??ng th???i trung c???, Chinguetti.

Ghi ch??p duy nh???t b???ng h??nh ???nh v??? h??nh tr??nh c???a h??? l?? m???t slide Kodak, m???t th??? th??nh t??ch c???a th???i ?????i ti???n k??? thu???t s??? trong ???? m???i khung h??nh ?????u ???????c tr??n tr???ng: c?? nh???ng ng?????i ng???i tr??n toa xe h??ng d?????i ??nh m???t tr???i ch??i chang gi???a m???t bi???n c??t v?? t???n.

T??i kh??ng bao gi??? qu??n h??nh ???nh ????, v?? th?????ng m?? s??? c?? m???t ng??y ch??nh m??nh ???????c ??i tr??n ??o??n t??u ch??? qu???ng s???t ????.

Nhi???u th???p k??? sau, t??i gi??? ??ang ng???i tr??n m???t toa xe b???ng th??p, l??n b??nh ??i v??o sa m???c Sahara.

T??i v?? Mike c??? g???ng t??m l???i h??nh tr??nh c???a cha m??? t??i b???ng c??ch l??n ???????ng t???i Choum, sau ???? ti???p t???c ?????n Atar v?? Chinguetti. ?????i v???i t??i ????y l?? m???t lo???i t??n k??nh tinh th???n c???a cha m??? t??i; vi???c th???c hi???n gi???c m?? th???i th?? ???u; vi???c kh??p l???i m???t v??ng tr??n.

AlamyBa??n quy????n hi??nh a??nhALAMY
Image captionNhi???u ng?????i Mauritania ch???n l??n c??c toa t??u ch??? h??ng ????? ???????c ??i ??i mi???n ph??

T???i Nouadhibou, m???t cu???c g???p g??? may m???n gi??p ch??ng t??i chu???n b??? s???n s??ng cho cu???c s???ng tr??n t??u.

Aiba, nh??n vi??n l??? t??n kh??ch s???n c???a ch??ng t??i, h??a ra l?? ng?????i v?? c??ng ????ng gi??.

????i m???t ??en c???a anh s??ng l??n khi nghe ch??ng t??i n??i v??? k??? ho???ch c???a m??nh.

"Ah, t??u ho???! T??i ???? ??i tr??n ???? r???t nhi???u l???n," anh th???t l??n. "Cha t??i l??m vi???c trong c??c m??? t???i Zouerat."

Aiba ????a cho ch??ng t??i nh???ng t??i nh???a v?? b??ng keo ????? cu???n ba l?? l???i cho kh???i b??? b???i b???n v???n s??? bay qu???n quanh ch??ng t??i nh???ng l??c sau n??y. Sau ????, anh ch??? ch??ng t??i ?????n nh?? ga v?? ch???n toa t??u s??? ????? ??? n??i g???n tr???m ch??ng t??i xu???ng nh???t.

V???i chi???u d??i c???a t??u v?? quy m?? nh??? c???a c??c khu ?????nh c?? n??i n?? d???ng l???i, m???t h??nh kh??ch c?? th??? ph???i ??i b??? h??n m???t c??y s??? khi t???i ga ?????n, n???u nh?? ch???n kh??ng kh??o toa t??u c???n l??n.

C?? m???t s??? m??u thu???n k??? qu???c khi ??i qua kh??ng gian r???ng l???n c???a sa m???c Sahara b??n trong m???t th??ng s???t kh??ng c???a s??? ch??? c?? di???n t??ch 8m x 4m. V?? v???y, b???t c??? khi n??o b???t ?????u c???m th???y qu?? ng???t ng???t, ch??ng t??i s??? t??? m??nh leo l??n b???c thang n??i g??c toa, tr???i v???t ??o ra ng???i v?? ng???m nh??n nh???ng ?????n c??t, nh???ng b???i c??y tr??i qua.

V??o cu???i chi???u, t??u b???t ?????u gi???m t???c ?????.

H??nh ch??? nh???t d??i ch??i m???t c???a b???u tr???i ph??a tr??n y???u d???n khi m???t tr???i m??a ????ng xu???ng th???p h??n, v?? toa t??u c???a t??i d???n ch??m v??o trong b??ng t???i. Cu???i c??ng, ??o??n t??u d???ng l???i gi???a m???t ?????ng b???ng c?? ????n, tr???i d??i tr??n m???t ???????ng cong r???ng h??ng tr??m toa xe d??i.

M???i ng?????i tr??o xu???ng v?? b???t ?????u t??? t???p ??? ph??a sau t??u, b???t tay nhau, ch??o h???i. Nh???ng ng?????i kh??c quay tr??? l???i c??c khu v???c ngo???i vi ho???c im l???ng nh??n t??? c???a s??? toa t??u ch??? kh??ch ?????y b???i b???n. ???? l?? m???t toa xe ???????c ????ng theo ki???u ch??u u v???i d??ng ch??? "Le Train du Desert" ch???y d???c th??n toa.

Khung c???nh h???p d???n m???t c??ch k??? qu???c, nh?? th??? h??? ??ang tr?? chuy???n trong khu v???c gi???i lao c???a nh?? h??t gi???a bu???i di???n ch??? kh??ng ph???i l?? ??i qua sa m???c tr??n m???t chuy???n t??u h??ng.

Trong s??? h??? c?? nh???ng ng?????i ??i bu??n b??n chi???m c??c toa t??u ph??a tr?????c ch??ng t??i; tr??ng nh?? ng?????i ch??u Phi da ??en v?? ng?????i ???-r???p, nh???ng ch??ng trai tr??? cao dong d???ng m???c ??o kho??c da v?? ????? th??? thao. Ch??ng t??i ???? nh??n th???y h??? ??? Nouadhibou, k??o nh???ng chi???c t??i qu?? kh??? l??n t??u.

R???i c?? nh???ng ng?????i ????n ??ng l???n tu???i, c?? l??? l?? ng?????i s???c t???c Bidan Moors thu???c t???ng l???p th?????ng l??u ??? n?????c n??y, ?????ng c??ch bi???t trong chi???c ??o cho??ng m??u tr???ng v?? m??u xanh lam, tr??n ?????u qu???n kh??n tr??m Touareg.

Th??nh ph???n pha t???p trong nh??m ph???n ??nh th???c t??? d??n t???c ph???c t???p c???a Mauritania, m???t qu???c gia n???m ??? ranh gi???i ?????t g??y gi???a th??? gi???i ???-r???p v?? v??ng h??? Sahara, v?? th???c s??? kh??ng thu???c v??? b??n n??o.

Cu???c s???ng ??? qu???c gia n??y, n??i m?? ch??? ????? n?? l??? m???i ch??? b??? ?????t ra ngo??i v??ng ph??p lu???t t??? n??m 1981, ti???p t???c b??? chi ph???i b???i m???t h??? th???ng ?????ng c???p nghi??m ng???t, trong ???? h???u nh?? kh??ng c?? m???y li??n h??? gi???a gi???i tinh hoa Bidan v?? t???ng l???p Haratin ph??a d?????i, ph???n l???n g???m ng?????i Mauritani l?? h???u du??? c???a ng?????i Berber (d??n b???n ?????a B???c Phi) v?? ng?????i g???c Phi.

Khi t??i h??a v??o d??ng h??nh kh??ch, vai tr?? c???a t??u h???a trong vi???c t???o li??n k???t trong ?????t li???n gi???a Nouadhibou v???i c??c c???ng ?????ng sa m???c xa x??i ??? mi???n trung Mauritania tr??? n??n r?? r??ng h??n bao gi??? h???t.

Abdurahman, m???t ch??ng trai tr??? v???i nh???ng ?????c ??i???m n???i b???t c???a ng?????i Moor v?? mc?? ??nh m???t s???c s???o, tr???nh tr???ng th??ng b??o v???i t??i r???ng anh v?? c??c b???n ??ang ??i ?????n Zouerat ????? t??m vi???c l??m. M???t ng?????i ????n ??ng l???n tu???i c?? t??n l?? Mohammed th?? ??ang tr??n ???????ng ?????n th??m con trai ??? Atar, ??ng v???n ??i nh?? th??? n??y m???i n??m v??i b???n.

Alastair GillBa??n quy????n hi??nh a??nhALASTAIR GILL
Image captionNg???i tr??n c??c toa t??u ch??? h??ng l?? h??nh tr??nh c???c k??? kh???c nghi???t, b???i nhi???t ????? ??? Sahara c?? th??? l??n t???i tr??n 40C

Khi m???t tr???i l???n h???n, m???t s??? ng?????i b?????c ra sa m???c ????? c???u nguy???n, trong khi nh???ng ng?????i kh??c n???m d??i tr??n b??i c??t m???m. Cu???i c??ng, m???t ti???ng c??i ph??t ra t??? ?????u m??y b??o hi???u r???ng ???? ?????n l??c ph???i ti???p t???c v?? h??nh kh??ch v???i v?? leo l??n t??u, gi???ng nh?? c??c th???y th??? tr??? v??? thuy???n v???y.

Sau ????, khi b??ng t???i bao tr??m l??n kh???p n??i, v?? b???u kh??ng kh?? tr??? n??n l???nh l???o, toa xe ch??? kh??ch l???n v??o c??c toa ch??? h??ng.

Ch???ng m???y ch???c, b???u tr???i ph??a tr??n l???p l??nh ??nh sao. Mike tr???i ch??n ra n??i s??n toa s???ch s??? kh??ng ch??t b???i b???m, r???i ch??ng t??i ng?? ng?????i xu???ng, c??? ng??? v???i chi???c ??o cho??ng Berber qu???n quanh.

Sau ????, run ng?????i trong gi?? l???nh, ch??ng t??i hi???u t???i sao ch??? n??y kh??ng c?? b???i - kh??ng ch??? l?? n??i s???ch nh???t m?? ???? c??n l?? n??i l???ng gi?? nh???t. Ch??ng t??i nhanh ch??ng di chuy???n ?????n g??c b???n nh???t.

N???a ????m, m???t m???i v?? nh???ng n??? l???c kh??ng c?? k???t qu??? ????? ng???, t??i ng???i d???y. Con t??u ????? im l??m d?????i ??nh tr??ng. M???t s??? t??nh l???ng d?????ng nh?? ???? r??i tr??n kh???p th??? gi???i.

B??n ngo??i, nh???ng khung c???a s??? c???a toa xe ch??? kh??ch, n???m c??ch ch??ng t??i v??i toa h??ng, to??? ra v???ng h??o quang k??? l??? v??o b??ng ????m n??i sa m???c t???i.

??? ?????ng xa, nh???ng ng???n n??i ??en l???m ch???m m???c l??n m???t c??ch phi th?????ng t??? nh???ng b??i c??t ph???ng b???t t???n. T??i t?????ng t?????ng t??m tr???ng c???a cha m??? m??nh h???i nhi???u n??m v??? tr?????c, khi h??? lo l???ng t??? h???i li???u ????y c?? ph???i l?? n??i h??? mu???n d???ng ch??n.

R???i ?????t nhi??n c?? ti???ng ???n l???n, ???m ???m vang l??n, v???i ti???ng ?????u m??y kh???ng l??? g??o h??.

Nh???ng toa t??u ch??? ?????ng qu???ng s???t ??en s???m r???m r???m ch???y ?????n t??? chi???u ng?????c l???i, ch???p ch???n hi???n ???n theo ??nh s??ng h???t ra t??? toa ch??? kh??ch t??? ??o??n t??u c???a ch??ng t??i.

T??i ????? ?? th???y tr??n ??o??n t??u kia c?? ba ng?????i ??ang c??i xu???ng b??n l?? than; r???i c?? m???t ????n d?? ?????ng h??? h???ng tr??n ?????ng qu???ng. V??i gi??y sau, nh???ng toa t??u bi???n m???t, b??? l???i nh???ng ????m m??y b???i t??? t??? l???ng xu???ng.

AlamyBa??n quy????n hi??nh a??nhALAMY
Image captionNhi???u ng?????i l??n t??u Train du Desert ????? t???i c??c th??nh ph??? t??m vi???c l??m ho???c th??m ng?????i th??n

Sau khi r???i kh???i Nouadhibou ???????c kho???ng 12 gi??? ?????ng h???, ch??ng t??i r??ng m??nh d???ng l???i trong b??ng t???i l???nh l???o ??? Choum.

Im l???ng ho??n to??n trong v??i gi??y, r???i sau ???? c?? ti???ng n??i v?? ??nh ??u???c. Ch??ng t??i t??? toa xe nh??n ra. Nh???ng ??nh ????n ??eo ?????u l?????i nh??c chi???u s??ng ph??a d?????i v?? c?? nh???ng ??m thanh th??c gi???c ph??t ra t??? c??c toa t??u l??n c???n.

Bi???t r???ng m??nh ch??? c?? v??i ph??t, ch??ng t??i v???i v?? k??o t??i x??ch h??nh l?? c???a m??nh xu???ng b???c thang, ??i ?????n n??i c?? m???t chi???c xe Peugeot c??? l??? s??? ??ang ch???.

M???t khu??n m???t nh??n nheo nho??i ra kh???i c???a s???: "??i Atar? Atar?"

Ch??ng t??i r???t bi???t ??n, leo l??n xe. ??? b??n c???nh, nh???ng toa t??u b???t ?????u l??n b??nh, vung b???i m???t m?? ??i qua ch??ng t??i r???i tan bi???n v??o m??n ????m.

Ng?????i t??i x???, c?? v??? nh?? ???? t?????ng nh???m ch??ng t??i l?? ng?????i d??n ?????a ph????ng, b???t ?????u tr?? chuy???n b???ng ti???ng ???-r???p, nh??ng chuy???n ?????ng nh??? nh??ng c???a chi???c xe ???? s???m khi???n t??i ng??? thi???p ??i.

Trong m???t nh?? tr??? ??? Chinguetti v??o t???i h??m sau, gi???a nh???ng ti???ng r?? r???m ph??a tr??n, ?????u t??i v???n vang l??n v???i ti???ng g???m v?? ti???ng r??t c???a ??o??n t??u.

T??i ch???p ch???n nh??? l???i l??c m??nh v???ng v??? tr??nh gi???y t??? t???i c??c tr???m ki???m so??t c???a c???nh s??t trong b??ng ????m, lang thang tr??n nh???ng con ???????ng b???i b???m c???a Atar l??c b??nh minh, ng??? tho??ng ch???c tr??n t???m th???m trong ph??ng tr???ng c???a m???t nh?? ch???a xe taxi.

V?? trong nh???ng ng??y ti???p theo, khi ch??ng t??i lang thang gi???a nh???ng ?????ng ????? n??t, chuy???n t??u ????a ch??ng t??i ?????n d?????ng nh?? ng??y c??ng tr??? n??n xa x??i m?? h??? h??n, nh?? th??? to??n b??? chuy???n ??i h??m tr?????c ch??? l?? s???n ph???m c???a m???t gi???c m?? ??i??n cu???ng, h???n lo???n, ho???c c?? l??? l?? m???t k?? ???c t?????ng t?????ng nh???ng chi ti???t ???? b???t ?????u phai m??? v??? h??nh tr??nh c???a cha m??? t??i h???i nhi???u n??m tr?????c.

Nh??ng trong h???u nh?? su???t tu???n sau ????, nh???ng v???y b???i m???n t??? qu???ng s???t c??? ti???p t???c r??ch ra t??? tai t??i.

B??i ti???ng Anh ???? ????ng tr??n BBC Travel.

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